160
160-161 Wiring harness modifications.
The plug that was originally connected to the instrument cluster is cut off, including the rubber boot. The following wires are no longer needed and should be cut slightly shorter and sealed up inside the insulation: Red, black, yellow/brown, and blue/yellow. The white/green and white/blue wires need to be stripped back and soldered together, then insulated with heat shrink tube and also tucked into the harness covering.

Now grab the 300mm long piece of new wire, two conductor, and strip the end of the red wire, along with the green wire from the original harness, twist these two wires together. Slide one of the small silicone rubber seals over the end of the two wires and solder on one of the connectors that will be placed into the plug housing after we have done the same with the remaining blue and brown/orange wires. Now slide the two connectors into the housing and push the small rubber seals in to seal up the connector. (1: Plus, red and green, 2: Ground, blue and brown/orange)

161
162The remaining end of the new two conductor cable needs to be connected to the small two wire connector that will be plugged into the back of the Roadbook holder. Solder two small sleeves to the ends of the wires, then place the ends into the connector and tighten the two small screws. Be sure and check the polarity on the back of the roadbook holder and connect the wires properly. (red: plus, blue: ground). Tape up the end of the wire where it meets the connector to protect it. Plug the connector into the back of the roadbook holder.
163The plugs for the power (assembled in step 160) along with the wheel sensor, and the remote control switches can be connected to the IMO. The connectors are all unique and therefore cannot be plugged in incorrectly.

NOTE: Some of the parts shipped with the IMO and the roadbook holder are not necessary, wire with plug, cable ties, and self-adhesive magnet.

164Wiring for the double headlight.
The original plug for the H4 headlamp and the socket for the parking lamp are cut off. Cut the wires at an even length. Connect the two brown (ground) wires together and solder on one of the connectors for the MOLEX plug. Solder additional connectors on each of the remaining three wires individually. Slide the four connectors into the MOLEX plug as follows:
Original wires    New headlamp wires
   Brown              Blue
   White              White
   Yellow             Black
   Grey               Yellow
165Wiring up the light switch.
Two connectors will need to be removed from the plug housing of the original headlamp plug inside the e-box. The two plugs are indicated in the photo. Both have brown/white wires connected to them. In the row with 4 pins, the farthest one to the right with the two brown/white wires should be removed, and in the second row the single brown/white which is also farthest to the right needs to be removed.
166The brown/white wire should now be cut just behind the connector with the double wires as indicated. This should leave a short wire that is still connected to the plug housing. The short wire with the two connectors that were removed from the plug is no longer needed.
167The red wire from the new light switch that is mounted in the new faring mount should have one of the new female 0.35 BMW connectors crimped and soldered on. The blue wire should be connected along with the remaining short brown/white to a new BMW connector as well.
168The two new connectors are now slid back into the plug housing. The red wire goes into the row with all four connectors, and the blue and brown/white plugs in next to the other brown/white.
169Connecting the aux power socket.
On the ends of the wires from the aux plug socket, strip the wires and crimp on two ring eye connectors, these will be connected directly to the battery terminals later when we reinstall the battery.

NOTE: Pay attention to the polarity when connecting these wires !! Blue is ground.

170With all the plugs connected inside the e-box the cover can be installed using the original screws (torx30). The battery mount can also be installed using the original nuts and washers (10mm wrench).
171The air cleaner housing (airbox) can be remounted onto the throttle body/butterfly housing. The two new aluminum mounting bolts are used to secure the airbox to the cross member mount. (6mm hex). These bolts are tightened to 4-6 ft/lbs.
172The intake housing is now cut off 10mm past the temperature sensor. After cutting the intake the edge can be smoothed using a file or knife blade.
173Slide the cut off intake into the slot with the air cleaner/airbox. Place the outside clip over the two housings to hold them together and secure it with the two original screws.
174The oil reservoir in placed back onto the original mounting pins and secured with the original clips. The bolt (torx30) and spacer that connects the oil tank to the airbox in carefully reinstalled (max 6ft/lbs.).
175The battery is reinstalled into the original battery support. (Hawker battery optional). The original rubber hold down strap is connected along with the two battery cables. Connect the positive cable first, then the ground. Do not forget to hook up the two wires for the aux socket when connecting the battery cables. Once the battery is installed the solenoid can be placed back on the top of the e-box and the IMO, roadbook holder, remote controls and the indicator lamps can all be tested.
176The transverse mounting tube for the faring can now be installed through the faring mount. It needs to be passed through the center of the mount and on the ends the four sheet metal nuts that were removed from the original tail section (from the tail lamp) can be installed. .
177The two aluminum clamps for the tube can be placed into the faring mount and loosely mounted using two M5x35 bolts (4mm hex) and washers. The mounts are positioned just below the headlamp switch. Do not tighten these until the faring has been installed and positioned correctly
178Installation of the front fender.
Place into the two forward holes two M6x16 button heads with large washers and underneath place the two fender reinforcements with washers and locknuts. The fender is now installed to the fork bridge using the four original bolts (torx30). The bolts should be secured with Loctite 243 and tightened to 4ft/lbs.
179Modification of the front side cover plaques. The logo plaques should be removed from the original side covers by removing the Phillips head screws. The BMW logos can now be carefully pried from the plaques. The two plastic tabs (1) can now be cut off of the plaques and the rough edge sanded so that a smooth even curve is left. The original screw hole should be drilled through with a 5.1mm drill and countersunk from the front for the 5mm slot head screws.
180Assembly of the rear fuel tanks.
The two metal plates are installed at the bottom of the rear tanks using two M6x16 countersunk bolts (4mm hex) with an o-ring seal placed between the plate and the tank. Disconnect the two quick disconnect fittings of the rear fuel lines and secure the banjo fittings to the tanks using new banjo bolts and two gaskets per connection. The lines should be pointed upwards (as they would sit on the bike) as shown.